Evolution is constantly around us, and it is always interesting to discover why certain things evolve in the way they do; in the clothing world function and fashion are the main duo that go hand in hand deciding what will be next and why, but culture always plays a huge part, and events that happen throughout history also have a great impact on how things develop.
The guidebook states that "Undercover is a celebration as well as an expose of the role of underwear in women's lives, tracing its evolution from health garment, shape enhancer, to fashion 'must have'."
In the 1900s the corset was originally designed for women's health as it removed pressure from the abdomen, making breathing easier and providing greater freedom for movement. It was known as the 'S' corset, pushing the bust forward and the hips back. However the 1910s saw the leaner silhouette and the 'empire line' replace the corset-shape fashion, and the first brassiere was 'invented' by Mary Phelps Jacobs by tying handkerchiefs and ribbon together to form a support that did not show under her evening gown. When WW1 broke out the absence of corsets remained popular as more than 2m women entered the workforce, and therefore required much more functional attire.
Flatter chests and freedom from corsets remained the craze for the 'flapper girl' throughout the 20s, but by the 30s a high pert bust made fashionable by the likes of Hollywood, in particular Lana Turner, started the 'sweater girl' trend that lasted into the 50s. By the 50s the hour glass figure was back in vogue and Hollywood's influence on fashion hit its peak with bullet bras and pin-up girls. A group that had also not existed before - teenagers - became a hige potential consumer market for these kinds of trends.
The 60s and 70s saw less of a demand for structured underwear as Twiggy's 'waif' look and the launch of pantyhose (tights) came into play. The feminist movement of the late 60s / 70s saw bra sales hit an all time low, as breasts in their unbound, natural shape became acceptable and companies began to develop lightweight 'no bra' bras. However the 80s brought lingerie back in an almighty bounce - bigger was better. With a love for aerobicised bodies and tv shows such as baywatch, women wanted to emphasise their clevage and with their high levels of disposable income, bras started to become more of a fashion statement. The 90s saw the relaunch of the Wonderbra, and the craze for the push-up look encouraging women to flaunt their assets.
The early noughties have followed this craze too, with more and more women getting breast implants, page 3 girls and magazines such as FHM promoting girls with big breasts to be better. There are also shops now which are solely for underwear and bedroom attire: Victoria's Secret, La Senza and not forgetting he infamous Ann Summers. These kind of shops have encouraged women to invest in their own underwear wardrobe, and just as we wear outer-garments to suit the mood, season or fashion, we can now do the same with underwear as a rich variety of colours, styles and patterns are on the market. Younger girls are now investing in bras as the young generation seem to be growing up more quickly then ever. My 5 year old cousin even owns a training bra! Who knows what future decades will bring but from looking at history things could certainly go either way. With the credit crunch now into full swing maybe we will even decide we can't afford underwear anymore, and all go for the 'natural' look of the 70s!
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